The word “embryo” indicates a multicellular organism that
literally “swells” or “grows”. Inspired by molecular embryology and
developmental genetics, this March the AA Visiting School in Paris will be
breeding its own architecturally fashionable organisms.
After the success of the “F(AA)shion” and “Building Fashion” workshops,
the AA School in Paris is back with a new intensive programme of lectures aimed
at combining different disciplines together and at creating new hybridic ones
that mix fashion, architecture and design.
Curated by Jorge Ayala, Director of the AA Visiting School in Paris and
founder of the [Ay]A Studio, the new programme is entitled
“Post-McQueen Embryos” (19th-30th March 2012) and will move from Alexander
McQueen, prompting the students to explore a variety of themes including mass
production driven by advanced capitalism and clothes adaptability in
temperature variations and in technologically challenging urban environments.
Can you introduce us this season's main theme for the course?
Jorge Ayala: Following our previous critical agendas, this season’s
programme seeks to continue taking fashion design out of its commercial
destination. The starting point for our second academic year is “Post-Alexander
McQueen” fashion, but our target remains the same, keeping on mixing
architectural processes and fashion. "Post-McQueen Embryos" will
operate as a unique atelier where we will be developing prêt-à-porter and
What fascinates you about McQueen?
Jorge Ayala: Different aspects and also his position regarding fashion. On
a design level, what really fascinated me about this designer was his skill at
creating completely unexpected garments by using traditional materials such as
cashmere or leather.
Which are the main differences between last season and this season's course?
Jorge Ayala: A full collection and a catwalk show. The Spring/ Summer
season at the AA School Paris celebrates a year of research around the
"Fashion+Architecture" theme. Thus, the archives of works we have
generated over one year will allow us to develop a unique fashion show. In the
past two seasons, we learnt a set of techniques, from clothing design via
advanced computational design to physical testing and innovative logics of
assembling and rapid-prototyping. This season we are going to refine such
design strategies and launch an AA Paris show and catwalk.
What kind of backgrounds should the students enrolling in
the course have?
Jorge Ayala: We are trying to strengthen the connections between fashion
and architecture, so students with these backgrounds or with degrees in these
fields. This season will be marked by the making of advanced design and by the
themes of fabrication and construction in fashion and one of our guest tutors
will be architect Isaïe Bloch, current collaborator of Dutch designer Iris van
Herpen. Besides, AA Emtech Graduate Riyad Joucka has been invited to join for a
second time the fashion laboratory alongside EZCT Collaborator Thibault
Schwartz, expert on the development of robot-assisted tools of construction.
Jorge Ayala: The students’ production was
totally stunning. Over the past 12 months, this Parisian workshop has developed
a lot, reuniting an open-minded, imaginative and avant-garde group of people
committed to fashion while at the same time injecting new strength in the AA
School thanks to its international alumni.
[Ay]A Studio/ AA School Paris Founder and Director Jorge
Ayala took part in the Sweden-based RUM Magazine: 20-pages spread feature
dedicated to FASHION+ARCHITECTURE [MODE OCH ARKITEKTUR].
Written and curated by Björn Ehrlemark and Carin Kallenberg, this special issue
includes also Julia Krantz, Minna Palmqvist, V AVE Shoe Repair, Prada by OMA,
Bradley Quinn, Iris van Herpen, Lady Gaga, Zaha Hadid and many others.